Hopefully, after reading this you'll have a better understanding of how to properly care for your model cars and clean up any accidents. The care tips will also help your models live a long and productive life, giving you countless hours of eye pleasure!
Brushes
Why on earth would anyone need a brush? Ok, how many of you have lost parts to the dreaded dust rag? Purchase several brushes whose only purpose is reserved for dusting. Have a 1" camel hair brush which is use for general purpose dusting, a large rounded brush for detail work on interior areas and a brush generally found with electric razors for the cleaning of dried waxes in hard to reach places. If you take a stroll down the makeup isle you'll be able to find all kinds of things appropriate for your models. Just takes an open mind, that's all. Make-up brushes are awesome for general-purpose dusting and cost pennies as compared to a 1" camel hairbrush. A neat trick for stubborn dust on the inside of the windshield, especially a hardtop model, is to brush the outside "glass" until a static charge is created. Then all you need to do is drag the brush over the outside of the "glass" and the particle clings, right out to the edge.
VacuumI'm not kidding! Computer stores have these neat little battery-powered vacuums. Many, come with a few attachments. I do not recommend the brush
attachments as they are very stiff and the thick diameter of the intake shaft prevents any usefulness.
To get around this, go to your local health supply store, one that carries oxygen. Ask them if they carry oxygen bubble tubing. If they do,a 1-foot section will last you an awful long time.You will need to cut ashort section of tubing at the widest part of the bubble - in most cases this will be right in the middle. Then cut the tubing at the thinnest part. This is the end that will go into the car. It will be about 6 inches of tubing. Attach this to the end of you vacuum unit and you're ready to go. Being soft and pliable, the tubing will not scratch paint or chrome. Youcan easily get into corners of the floor and get at any stubborn dust. I also do not recommend mini attachments you can get for portable, full size vacuum units.
Buffing rags
Any old rag will do...right? Wrong! You should be using only 100% cotton rags to buff your models. Some cotton rags like diapers are stitched with rayon. Rayon will scratch your model's surface. Art supply stores offer rolls of 100% cotton wipes, as do some auto supply stores. Remember: be sure it's all cotton!
Dust Off
This is the spray air in a can. This can be an effective way to shear parts right off your models. The burst of air from the can nozzle could probably be clocked right with the force of a hurricane! One gentle blast will get any errant dust off the surface.
Polishes & Waxes Use only waxes or polishes recommended for use on clear coats. They do not contain any abrasives that can scratch your model's finish. This is extremely important if you plan on treating a black car to a buffing. If the car only has a few fingerprints, especially after eating cheese curls or something similar, I will wipe the car down with Final Inspection by Meguiars
NEVER spray product directly onto a model! Dip a Q-tip into a small container holding some solution. Blot off any excess andthen gently apply to the surface. Avoid raised edges and silver painted areas as these can easily rub through. The solution dries to a fine haze. Wipe the haze away using a 100% cotton cloth, wrapped around your index finger.
You need not apply Herculean pressure onto the surface of the model. Light, gentle pressure will get the haze off. Sometimes there are stubborn glue marks or even scratches on the surface. To remove the glue marks, use a product called Bare Metal Plastic Polish. It dissolved the glue mark and polished the paint underneath.
For final waxing use a non-abrasive Carnauba wax. It's applied with Q-tips and then gently wiped off. Again, use the same guidelines for waxing. Avoid high spots and silver painted trim. Also avoid mirrors, photo etched parts and the edges of chrome body trim.
During the entire cleaning/waxing process, wear cotton gloves. Not only will they make you feel pretty, they serve the function of preventing oils from your hands, marring a clean surface. When you are finished, put the gloves in a Zip-Lock bag to protect them from dust and most importantly, debris that might be around the workbench. Last thing you need is a fine metal shaving to get imbedded in your gloves and scratch your finish, inadvertently. I also suggest that you do the same with your buffing rags. Another good polish is
Novus and it comes in 3 concentrations. I would only suggest that a novice use #1 and #2.
Solvents and other nasty things
Most Care and Handling booklets tell you not to use solvents of any kind. They mean it! I've heard of people on the boards using Acetone and all kinds of other things to clean model cars. Two words to those folks... "You're nuts!" ACETONE WILL SOFTEN PAINT....period! Only use Acetone or nail polish remover to remove the tampos if you have experience in doing so. So unless you're prepared to send your model for a repaint, or willing to toss stay away from acetone.
Waxes with cleaners are ARE NOT GOOD! Avoid them! They leave fine scratches on a surface of a model. Over time, continued use will dull the finish right out.
Avoid the use of water on your diecast cars. If you have a high acid content, number one-you should be drinking bottled water, but the acid will attack the metal over time and rust. Metal parts will form a crusty, orange coating, commonly known as rust. High acid water gets to the metal through pores in the paint and over time reacts with it, like acid rain.
Most model chrome is typical automotive chrome and can be cleaned easily. Sometimes a simple wipe with a soft cloth will do. Be careful not to use any petroleum based products on the "other" chrome found on models. Any petroleum based cleaner or wax will remove your metalized coating. This coating is common to promo models, model kit chrome and some cheaper diecast models.
Sunlight, extreme heat and cold reek havoc on your diecast. Never store your models in an uninsulated attic, temperatures can reach high enough that will melt rubber tires, distort plastic and cause paint to eventually bubble/crack. (I believe Dan aka Liv N Low shared what could happen to your diecast if exposed to extreme heat and cold) To the converse, attics can also get cold enough to destroy your diecast. This constant expansion and contraction will eventually destroy your cars. Direct sunlight will fade colors on the interior and exterior. Also avoid exposure to high intensity halogen lights. Some pigments in paint will fade quickly.
Follow these directions and your diecast will be the source of pride for years to come.
